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Pinky Cole's Slutty Vegan expands to New York | USA TODAY

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Pinky Cole founded Slutty Vegan in Atlanta, GA in 2018, using a mobile food truck to fulfill orders. Now, the restaurant has multiple locations.

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The doors opened at 4 p.m., but the line formed an hour earlier at this restaurant in Southwest Atlanta, minutes from the historically black Clark Atlanta University. No one seemed to mind the wait, reported The American South, a USA TODAY Network member. “I’m excited,” one woman told another. “I heard people are out here until 1 a.m. in the morning,” another said.

At first the crowd, young but with a smattering of families and middle-aged women, fiddled with their phones, which is how they likely first learned about this place on Instagram. They might have seen Usher or Biz Markie biting into burger or holding up a takeout bag like a trophy. Soon the phones were down and everyone was seduced by real life. The windows were open. The hip-hop pumping. The staff was waving their hands, calling the first timers “virgins” and repeat customers “sluts.” It smelled like meat was on the grill except that’s off limits here. This was Slutty Vegan. Nothing from an animal comes out of this kitchen.

Cole’s restaurant is a phenomenon. This burger joint, though, is just the most buzzed about example of a new wave of vegan restaurants across the South. They serve big flavors. They have style. And they’re black owned. As the trend of vegan restaurants gains momentum it’s calling attention to the various reasons people choose vegan lifestyles. Even with Southern palates acclimated to the fried and smothered, skeptics are embracing new meatless but mouthwatering dishes.

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